April 07, 2009

Delayed Musings, Pt. 2

Clothing is tactile and tangible; everyone wears it and it is worn in a multitude of ways. Fashion, while it encompasses clothing, is something far more artistic and unattainable.  When I think of fashion, I think of runway shows and glossy spreads in magazines that premiere and showcase the art of the garment, the shoe, the look.  

The Chicago History Museum is currently hosting an exhibit entitled Chic Chicago, which features beautiful pieces dating from 1861 to 2004 by many of the major couturiers of the past two centuries.  It is rare that I get to see garments crafted by some of the best designers outside the pages of Vogue, Elle, Bazaar, and other fashion magazines.  While I was not able to touch or photograph any of the exhibit, I took great pleasure in seeing the dresses up close.  There is something magical about seeing a couture dress in person.  It is comparable to standing in front of a Van Gogh or Picasso for the first time.  

I purchased some postcard-sized pictures of some of the garments from the exhibit.  Below are scans of some of my favorites: 

Evening Gown by Charles Frederick Worth, c. 1884

What the picture fails to show is the detailing of this dress, particularly the flowers cut into the tan velvet stripes of the dress. So exquisite.

Robe de Style by Jeanne Lanvin, 1927

"Sorbet" evening gown by Paul Poiret, 1913

Poiret's "Sorbet" gown single-handedly changed the direction of fashion.  It freed women from the confines of the corset (although I've heard the hobble skirt, as used here, is not all the freeing itself).

Evening Ensemble by Elsa Schiaparelli, 1937

The embroidery on this ensemble encapsulates just how artistic a piece of clothing can be.  

Also, as a sidenote, I find it interesting how Schiaparelli and Coco Chanel rose to fame and notoriety about the same time.  Both are amongst the finest designers of the twentieth century. Chanel is a household name- I bet even a five-year-old would be able to identify the interlocking Cs- but does the average person know who Schiaparelli was? No.

Evening gown by Christian Dior, c. 1953

I wish there would have been a postcard of the fabulous New Look Autumn Dress that was in the exhibit.

"Infanta" evening gown by Charles James, c. 1952

The "Infanta" evening gown was my favorite of the entire exhibit.  The bodice, while it looks almost like a satin in this picture, is actually beaded.  And what the photograph fails to show are the layers of pink and yellow tulle that peak out from underneath the dress. Apparently, James incorporated an element of flirtation into each of his designs.

After seeing the exhibit, I realized that I know very little about James' designs or career.  I've only been peripherally aware of them.  I think it's time that I gave them a closer look.

"Butterfly" Ballgown by Charles James, 1954

All images copyright of Chicago History Museum

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